Wednesday, 23 January 2013

Fingerboards

Why should I be hanging off a bit of wood or plastic for 30 minuets????

Although I have one I don’t use it at all at the moment but think that i should. My views on them will never change and I think that they are good for you in one way but can do nothing for you in another.

I agree that you can get finger strength from them by carrying on with a good routine and with steady progress. When I was using mine my routine consisted of one day on one day off. I would try and follow the “BEASTMAKER” exercises. What I find is it that most people get bored of the whole exercise but the only way to get strong is to stay on it for the whole year.

Even though your fingers get strong and you manage to hang the 10mm crimps on your little finger while holding a 10kg weight in the other hand, you will not gain the contact strength from just static hangs.
I find that the best way to gain this is on slightly overhanging walls with small holds and some big moves, if you’re planning on training this way the moves don’t have to be massive just enough so you feel like you’re going to come off. This will also train your core if you can keep your feet on the wall and keep your body open with no drop knees.

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