Well today was just amazing, me and Rich decided to head down to Guillemont Ledge to get on some trad routes, the wind was up the waves were crashing and the routes were dry good times.
When we arrived we decided to get on Strapiombo HVS 5a, I went for the lead as rich was hung-over so off I went. The first section was nice a little dusty but still good, this lead me up under a roof this is where the fun started. I first went out to try and tackle this with my head wedged up on the roof my feet high and my hands on rounded blind holds. I then went back to the good rest after realising my feet were too high I went back out and gave it another try which lead me to success.
We now went back down to climb a route called August Angie E1 5b. This is the only E1 that I have not done down at the area so it was just too tempting not to try it. I started off with full confidence this soon changed, the route starts off with a nice corner climb with little difficulty this then headed up to a roof which wasn’t too bad and then up a groove on side pulls and smears, still not too bad. Now I had to traverse about 5m left to the belay this was crazy, my last piece of gear was around 15ft below me and now I was on a sandy, crumbly ledge with smears for feat and this is when the head was shouting what the F**K are you doing. Rich was quite and looking at me in anticipation. I got to about 2m from the belay and still no gear, I could see good holds coming but still smears for the feet so I just went for it and I was so happy I was on a nice clean jug and at the belay. Rich came up on second with full body shakes and all I could hear was “this is so dangerous, ooo my god” he got to the belay to find me laughing my head off at seeing him so scared it made me feel better. Rich lead the steep second pitch smoothly and safely,
Tomorrow leads me down to Portland to climb some sport, let’s see what happens down there.
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