Last few outings

Me and my friend Tommy headed up to north Wales last week to try some trad out, while we were up there we went for a little adventure on the big mountain crag on Lliwedd. We did a famous route called “Red Wall” a easy Sev, we headed up in the sunshine to finally end up in a cloud making the whole thing wet and horrible but we carried on. It was a really good day in the end.

The next day we headed to Tremadog, our first route was a HVS called Meshach an amazing route with great climbing and nice views.

We then got on an E1 called Grim wall direct this was another great route with a run out bottom pitch with nice climbing.

This weekend I decided to head down to Portland to clip some bolts, I headed down to Battleship main to try some hard routes but not much got don, after on sighting a 6c I had a shot at top roping a 7c called Mirror Wall which was an amazing route with a short hard crux. I just did not have the guns to work out how to do the bottom moves but maybe it will go when I’m next on it.

The next day I did have any skin left so I went down to blacknor boulder beach to meet two of my friends who are looking for new boulders and they are doing a good job. Here are some photos of the last few outings and one of my trip to the zoo.

El Cap here we come two weeks to go :-)

ONSIGHT ONSIGHT ONSIGHT

On-sight is the word for this weekend.

On Saturday I went down to Hedbury to climb with my dad I had no plans on doing anything as I have done most of the routes there, in the afternoon we decided to head over to dancing ledge and I was going to give a 7a a go called Mexican wave. This is a route that isn’t too long but about 80% of the time you are horizontal, I started off thugging my way through the roof and it wasn’t long till the pump kicked in I had got to the lip and pulled and pulled but finally popped off. As it was late in the day and my arms felt like they were going to fall off I didn’t get back on for another go.

Today I headed down to Portland to an area called Battleship, I met up with my friend Trev who I hadn’t seen for a while and the climbing started. We warmed up on a 4+ and then the on sighting started. First was a 6a+ then onsighted a 7a which was I was really happy with then decided to go for a 6c and then another 6. I was so happy with today as it’s been a while since I have had a good day like this with hard routes.

North Wales next weekend happy days

Ian trying to onsight "Trance Dance" 7a

Sport onsighting

Sunday I headed down to Blacknor south with my friend Toby, we headed down there to just tick a few new routes. Not much to report on but I managed to onsight two 6c+ which I was really happy with and so did Toby. Later on in the day Toby got on a 7a and fell off on the onsight attempted at the easy part but it was a really good effort on his part. He then did it on the second go.

What will next weekend bring ?????

Wind waves and scary climbing

Well today was just amazing, me and Rich decided to head down to Guillemont Ledge to get on some trad routes, the wind was up the waves were crashing and the routes were dry good times.

When we arrived we decided to get on Strapiombo HVS 5a, I went for the lead as rich was hung-over so off I went. The first section was nice a little dusty but still good, this lead me up under a roof this is where the fun started. I first went out to try and tackle this with my head wedged up on the roof my feet high and my hands on rounded blind holds. I then went back to the good rest after realising my feet were too high I went back out and gave it another try which lead me to success.

We now went back down to climb a route called August Angie E1 5b. This is the only E1 that I have not done down at the area so it was just too tempting not to try it. I started off with full confidence this soon changed, the route starts off with a nice corner climb with little difficulty this then headed up to a roof which wasn’t too bad and then up a groove on side pulls and smears, still not too bad. Now I had to traverse about 5m left to the belay this was crazy, my last piece of gear was around 15ft below me and now I was on a sandy, crumbly ledge with smears for feat and this is when the head was shouting what the F**K are you doing. Rich was quite and looking at me in anticipation. I got to about 2m from the belay and still no gear, I could see good holds coming but still smears for the feet so I just went for it and I was so happy I was on a nice clean jug and at the belay. Rich came up on second with full body shakes and all I could hear was “this is so dangerous, ooo my god” he got to the belay to find me laughing my head off at seeing him so scared it made me feel better. Rich lead the steep second pitch smoothly and safely,

Tomorrow leads me down to Portland to climb some sport, let’s see what happens down there.

Hot and sunny

This weekend was sun filled and full of climbing too, on Saturday me and Rich headed down to boulder ruckle to get on some trad lines. As it’s still early in the season we are just getting on HVS and E1 at the moment. We abseiled in to the ruckle to get on “Aventura”, rich took the first pitch and headed up by chimleying his way up to the first belay. I came up to the belay to find two guys on a route to the right of us with a stove out making coffee. It was my turn to take the lead on the last pitch, amazing steep fun climbing.

We then decided to climb another HVS called “Jo” this route was defiantly a 3* route with rich leading the first pitch and me leading the 5a pitch just another amazing steep finish to a nice grove.

On Sunday me and my dad decided to go down to winspit and climb some old favourites, we also met an old friend and climbed with them on some nice routes. 

Altogether another really nice weekend, hopefully the weather will be good for another weekend as I’m heading up to the grit to try some stuff up the next weekend.