Saturday, 8 June 2013

Power Screams

With another amazing day ahead we headed back down to the same spot THE PROMENADE.

I have had my eyes on a section of routes down the far end of the crag where the grades shoot up and the routes shoot out horizontally. We warmed up on the usual stuff and I watched Tommy dry hump his way up a 6b+. I then wanted to get on my route "Rise of the Robots" (7b+). Ive never done a roof climb like this where you could clip most of the bolts with a clip stick from the deck.

I pulled on to look out at 6 quick draws free hanging thinking "here we go". It wasn't long before I took hold of the clip and pull up on the rope. I thought I would get the rest of the clips in and went bolt to bolt working it roughly as I went up pulling my way through to the lower off.

After a rest and watching Tommy try a 7a+ I jumped back on not really knowing what was going to happen. Before I knew it I was giving it some and a couple of power screams came out. I carried on fighting the power pump and just pulled it off on my first RP.


What a day it has been i just love this place and this sport.

Thanks to Tommy Harris for photo's






Monday, 3 June 2013

Getting it done

Another weekend of amazing sun, sea and steep routes. I headed down to the promenade again this week to try a route drew tried last week called electric circus 7b+. After meeting up we stomped down to the crag, had a quick warm up on a 6a and jumped straight on it.

I climbed up to the first bulge where the main crux is to soon find myself saying the same old words every one hears at the crag “Take”. After trying to figure it out I went to the top from the bolt and found the rest of the route ok with a couple of pulls off crimps and then onto jugs of glory.

I had another go and found the beta by dropping the knee on a low foot hold. I then had a couple goes at leading it with a few slips; I then finally caught the crux hold and pulled my way through to the jugs with success. I haven't done many 7b+’s but this one felt just as hard as some of the 7c’s I’ve done, either way I was psyched I got the route done in a day and am looking forward to this weekend.

Where to go????
PROMENADE…..