Sunday, 26 May 2013

setting sights on ???

Ive had a wicked few weekends out with the start of it being bouldering. I always used to say bouldering was a load of crap and I had no time for it at all. I will never say that again after the winter spent in the boulder field and in some new venues Ive realised Ive got alot stronger and been able to open doors to the routes I wouldn't of been able to do before.

I headed down to the Promenade with drew this weekend, somewhere Ive been say to him that I wanted to spend my summer climbing. I didn't really know why I wanted to do this or weather I was good enough to spend lots of time here. when we arrived the waves were down and the sun was out, so our psyche was on a high. after warming up we walked round looking for routes to try and we found a few power routes that would suit our bouldering strength. we started on a 7a which I managed to onsight and a bit shocked that it felt not that hard. next up was a 7b+ and after working out the crux it soon went down and I was just thinking about what a amazing day this had turned out to be. drew had done another 7a wile I was on the other route so I thought I would give it ago with the beta and soon found my self flashing it and lowering off.

I will defiantly be heading back to this mega venue.

I got asked a question at the weekend on weather I had a route that I would like to do this year and I honestly didn't have a clue just because I never thought that I would be able to climb hard grades and super cool routes. I think I will have to start searching through the guide books and setting my sights on something.

Friday, 3 May 2013

Things are on the up

It has been really good weather in the past week and it started with a Friday down at Portland with a man on a mission.
I headed down there looking to do some first ascents on some boulders my friend drew found. I headed down bright and early ready to hit it with Drew coming over later that day to meet up with some friends in a new area. After arriving at the boulders in the sun thinking how much of a nice day it was, it wasn’t long before I was hoping it would cloud over and cool down. I was dumping rocks everywhere making a flat landing, pulling ivy away and cleaning mud of the top outs.
Once it was all done I laid in the sun for an hour waiting for drew to arrive and also so I could have a rest. He turned up and we both managed to climb all the problems available with high hopes for something hard we ended up with just a handful of v2’s and one v4.
We then headed over to meet friends in a new spot with lots of potential hard problems, maybe more to come soon.

I headed over to Winspit on the Sunday with temps a bit colder then previous days. I had my eye on a 7b+ called rev head highrollers, a cool line that has a steep start and a really good finish up a arĂȘte. I had tried this a couple of times the week before but had no luck on it thinking that the roof was just too much for me, after going up bolt to bolt to get the clips in I pulled the rope and psyched up to just go for it and see what happens. Before I knew it I was through the thuggish roof and at a ok rest, with not much more to go I went for it and ended up clipping the lower off with joy. My first 7b+ of the year.

With my psych on a all-time high I’m heading to cheddar gorge on Sunday to get some on finished business sorted out and head to lion for some hard steep limestone.