Flu

Its always a bummer when u get ill when you are feeling good on the rock. Today i got out to the cuttings not feeling 100% when i arrived i was cold within seconds with the high winds and freezing conditions. One thought was ye friction will be great after warming up and watching Tommy cheat his way up a V7 i got on a V6, i did it first go but felt like hell while doing it.

I thought it would be a good idea to get back on Guy Fawkes but this turned out to be not a very good effort, I held the crux but couldn't pull through.

I will have to wait it out until I'm better roll on north wales next weekend!!!

Liquid Grip

I have been using this new product called LiquidGrip and the results are pretty good. the main problem Ive found with most liquid chalk products is that they just smell too toxic and that they seem to be too messy leaving marks all over the bouldering mat, this also cant be to good for the material of the product either.

When using Liquid grip it doesn't leave any marks on anything and is less potent than other products.

the texture of the product is less powdery than others and when you first use it you think its not enough chalk on ya hands, but when you get your hands on the rock you know instantly that its enough and the friction was enough.

I use this product before red points on routes and before going for it on a boulder. On routes its a great product because if apply it to yourself before you go for it!! you will find that you will not need to re chalk at all or maybe only once by the time your at the top.

Check this stuff out its top notch in my view.

http://liquidgrip.co.uk/

 

As the weather was looking bad for the weekend I took the day off to get down to the cuttings and get back on  some projects. After warming up and watching drew try the 3* problem "ladies night" we stomped up to the new cuttings to try "Guy Fawkes". On my first try I managed to catch both the crimps and tryied to jump to next edge and balls it up. Now the sun was on the problem every time i tried going to the next crimp it would just feel too greasy.

After a few tries I gave in and am going to come back to it anouther day when the sun is not out.

I now have a few trips planed for then next month and am feeling fit and ready for them. My Swiss trip is my main trip for next month and have my eyes on a few things but only time will tell what will happen.



Philip Belcher on V6 Neil Armstrong
Photo Tommy Harris



Hard Lines

Today me and a few friends headed down to the cuttings boulder field to try some harder lines. We arrived in the sun and conditions were mint. after warming up and looking at some future projects me and drew headed over to a V7 called terminator. This is a overhanging face climb on crimps prob one of the best of its grade in the field. After drew had warmed his fingers up he soon sent it with ease.

Avfter he managed to send that, I wanted to head over to a problem called "laddies night" V8. when we arrived we saw the line and got psyched within seconds. On my first attempt I managed to pull of the floor and get to the high slopers one move from the top and popped off and was gutted but supper happy too.

After a few goes i managed to send it and with body feeling strong we headed up to a problem called "guy fawkes" this gets V10, I met someone there who was trying it and he gave me the betta to the route so I got on it and gave it a good go and managed to surprise my self by pulling onto the tiny crimps and holding it but not long after that i fell off.

I think with a bit fresher arms this route could get sent.



Guy Fawkes V10
Photo Ben Stokes